1. Sketch a diagram of wave and label wavelength and wave height 2. What is the formula for calculating the speed of a wave? 3. Why are waves in the much bigger than waves in a lake? 4. What does it mean to say that swell has a period of 15 seconds? 5. You are standing at the beach and observe 6 ft. waves striking the beach every 6 seconds. You estimate the distance between the waves to be 30 meters. How fast are the waves moving? 6. What three factors are necessary to produce large waves in the ocean? 7. What is a wave train? 8. Use both words and pictures to describe two differences between deep-water waves and shallow-water waves 9. Most waves in the open ocean area caused by __ 10.What is "swell"

1. A wave is a disturbance that travels through a medium, transferring energy from one particle to another. The wavelength is the distance between two consecutive crests or troughs of a wave, while the wave height is the vertical distance between a crest and a trough.<br />2. The formula for calculating the speed of a wave is v = fλ, where v is the speed, f is the frequency, and λ is the wavelength.<br />3. Waves in the ocean are much bigger than waves in a lake because of the vast amount of energy that can be transferred from the wind to the water in the ocean. Additionally, the depth of the ocean allows for the propagation of larger waves compared to the relatively shallow depth of a lake.<br />4. When we say that a swell has a period of 15 seconds, it means that the time it takes for two consecutive crests of the swell to pass a fixed point is 15 seconds.<br />5. To calculate the speed of the waves, we can use the formula v = d/t, where v is the speed, d is the distance, and t is the time. In this case, the distance between the waves is 30 meters, and the time it takes for a wave to strike the beach is 6 seconds. Therefore, the speed of the waves is v = 30m/6s = 5 m/s.<br />6. The three factors necessary to produce large waves in the ocean are wind, fetch, and water depth. Wind provides the energy to generate waves, fetch is the distance over which the wind blows, and water depth affects the wave's speed and shape.<br />7. A wave train is a series of waves with similar characteristics, such as wavelength, frequency, and amplitude, that travel together.<br />8. Deep-water waves occur in water depths greater than half the wavelength, while shallow-water waves occur in water depths less than half the wavelength. In deep-water waves, the wave speed is determined by the wavelength, while in shallow-water waves, the wave speed is determined by the water depth.<br />9. Most waves in the open ocean are caused by wind.<br />10. Swell refers to a series of waves that have traveled away from their generating area, such as a storm or wind system, and have become organized into a group of waves with similar characteristics.